Shaken, not stirred (see below)!

One incredible asset of living in Singapore is the physical proximity to dozens of interesting countries, and I recently took advantage of this to visit Bali, the “Island of the Gods,” over the holidays. I’m not sure if I’ll ever go back (too many other places worth visiting), but I would definitely make sure to do a few things differently if given the opportunity. Bali is one of the prototypical vacation destinations, and, if you’re considering a visit, I’ll make a few suggestions:

1. Befriend the local monkeys

Pay a nominal entrance fee at the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (Jalan Monkey Forest) and roam these hallowed grounds of a Hindu temple complex for as long as you’d like. The monkeys are tame and adorable yet surprisingly brave when confronted with tepid visitors holding bananas! Don’t worry when you amble into other monkey gangs, either, they’re familiar with tourists.

Monkeying around

Low-fives on Mount Batur

2. Hike the Tjampuhan Valley

There is a great walking trail just outside of Ubud offering great views of the Balinese landscape. You’re sure to encounter plenty of coconut trees, rice terraces, and friendly locals along the trail.

Tjampuhan Valley Trail

Cocos nucifera

3. Eat at Naughty Nuri’s

Undoubtedly, there are many travel guides recommending this charismatic roadside stall, and it’s for a very good reason. Naughty Nuri’s (Jalan Sanggingan) specializes in barbecuing meats of all origin, especially ribs, which they prepare on a smoky charcoal grill along the road, front and center. (If you are, how shall I say, “food conscious,” you might consider an alternative vegetarian restaurant, Kafe.) Here, it’s required that you indulge yourself. In my case, I ordered one enormous hamburger and one dry gin martini, and I’m fairly certain it will be the only time in my life I simultaneously consume a bourgeois burger with a high-class cocktail in a rickety shack! (Note: you also must try the local Indonesian delicacies, including nasi campur, nasi goreng, satay, and many others.).

Naughty Nuri's

Enormous, delicious burger

4. Sleep in a rice field

There is an abundance of terraced rice fields throughout Bali, and you should settle for no less than a hotel room overlooking these community-owned agrarian relics. If you go outside of the busy season (1. Christmas holidays and 2. July to September), you might consider going without a hotel booking and sourcing the perfect spot once you arrive. If you’re going during peak, I would suggest that you book a room at Tegal Sari (Jalan Hanoman; +62 361 973318) far in advance. It is, hands down the best value for money.

Now, isn't that serene?

5. Shop yourself to death

Bali is a place where the traditions of craftsmen are alive and well. In an era of mass, cheap industrial production, we should carefully guard these havens of authentic craftsmanship. In Bali, this means carpenters, masons, and artisans are all working feverishly to produce interesting pieces for you to pick up! There is an incredible density of shops selling their wares in an area called Tegalalang, north of Ubud along Jalan Raya Andong, but you can also find many comparable shops in central Ubud. We found one terrific shop that produced furniture made with wood salvaged from old fishing boats!

Envison your new coffee table.

6. Intuitively explore the countryside

Finally and, perhaps, most importantly, you should get out into the rural areas to explore the wealth of Balinese architecture and community life. Just don’t trust any tour guide with the task. I’ve been on a lot of “sightseeing tours” that could be more aptly called visits to those destinations offering healthy kickbacks to our guide. In one episode, a guide offered to take us to a coffee plantation and we agreed to visit based on his description. After arriving, we realized it was a small house with three coffee trees and an elaborate souvenir shop, serendipitously available to all of the tourists stupid enough to submit to itinerary meddling! In the end, it’s often better to buy a map, ask a local waitress, or consult a travel guidebook about the places to visit. In Bali, you can rent a car or motorbike for a few dollars, and it makes the unstructured process of exploring so much more enjoyable!

Easy rider!

Temple architecture

Another happy customer

When I arrived home tonight I discovered something truly rare in Singapore – hot food being sold from the back of a bicycle! While it’s not uncommon to encounter such two-wheeled cooks in nearby Thailand or Vietnam, it’s all but an extinct phenomenon on this island. I suppose it’s too hard to conduct those random food safety inspections. Nonetheless, I think it’s great. It’s a lovely way to inject another layer of community into a high-rise building. The man in charge of this operation has been serving chicken and mutton satay on the same charcoal grill since 1975! The head chef is now being assisted by his two sons in nightly rounds. They travel to a different neighborhood every night it doesn’t rain. The dish served is prepared similar to a sish kebab and it’s served with spicy peanut sauce, rice cakes, and cucumbers. I thought about taking a photograph of the food, but I had consumed everything when the thought entered my mind. I mean, it’s absolutely perfect when prepared on a charcoal grill!

The unopened flower

This is a real botanical event people! This Friday I noticed the staff of the Singapore Botanic Gardens installing a display of the titan arum. The plant’s scientific name (Amorphophallus titanum) literally translates to “huge, shapeless phallus.” Found naturally in the forests of Sumatra, it has the largest unbranched flower inflorescence in the world. The flower structure is a vertical spadix enclosed by a showy spathe and can reach up to 3 m tall and 1 m wide. But the size isn’t even the half of it.

The flower emits a stench similar to rotten fish and generates significant heat. This unique combination of heat, smell, and color imitates that similarly generated by decomposing animals. Therefore, as you might guess, the flower is pollinated by flies and bees commonly supporting the decomposition process. Some stories about pollination biology, including this one, literally blow my mind! Its common names include the “titan arum” and “corpse flower.”

In the rain forest, the plant’s vegetative and reproductive structures grow from an underground tuber. Before flowering, a huge compound leaf arises and persists for a number of years to manufacture resources for the storage organ below ground. After the leaf sheds, the flower emerges and opens over a short period of two days. I will try to time my visits right and capture a photograph of the fully opened flower and share it with you. However, this is a plant that must truly be experienced in person! If you get the chance, don’t miss it.

Check out this video of David Attenborough with a titan arum.

I usually listen to NPR’s Morning Edition on the way home from work at night, and I hear a lot of commentary about change that is urgently needed in the U.S. People are lobbying to reform immigration, foreign policy, defense, and our reeling deficits. Many have valid concerns about these problems. There are  aspects of American society that need to be critically addressed. However, I think it’s beneficial to recount the good features of American life while  pursuing such solutions to tough issues, lest we become too scathing towards our neighbors offering a different perspective. Almost every day, I look fondly towards the U.S. and reminisce about certain aspects of our lifestyle. I admire our overall optimism, can-do attitudes, and open-minded approach to work. As Americans, we have access to so much business innovation, social outreach, artistic expression, and community development that would make people in other countries jealous. The U.S. is literally a place where you are limited only by your own ambition, and that is truly something to celebrate. I encounter many American tourists that speak ill of our home country, but I’m sure they don’t appreciate the unattractiveness of the alternatives. It’s important to realize that the foundation of our society is correct. We’ve got a good thing going here! Yes, we need to adjust some facets of our political, economic, and social lives. I just hope that, in the middle of partisan divisiveness and economic recovery, we reflect on the inherently positive nature of the American dream. We might achieve something at the bargaining table if we appreciated that our motivations in the debate are actually the same – to make a good thing better.

As you might guess, I look forward to my next chance to visit my home again. Although it’s exciting to work abroad, it’s altogether good to remember where you come from. I will, however, make one adjustment on the next visit. I admit that I was zealous, and I planned the vacation a little too ambitiously. We drove over 2,400 miles and visited a dozen cities. As one friend put it, “It sounds like you’re trying to fit twenty pounds of rocks in a ten pound sack!” Still, looking back, it was completely worth all of the effort to reconnect with so many friends and family. My girlfriend, Jui, and I had an unforgettable time.

Montpelier, OH

Grand Rapids, MI

Berea, KY

Savannah, GA

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

My sister, the bride!

Corbin, KY

Many are aware of the world-famous garden shows at Philadelphia and Chelsea, and most will be familiar with their artfully designed garden showcases, trade shows, and the individual competitions of cadillac specimen plants. However, Singapore has also recently begun to pursue its own spectacular horticultural pageantry, and the week long Singapore Garden Festival just finished last weekend. The number of these shows in the U.S. is dwindling, possibly an indication of economic languor, but it seems that there are as many eager upstarts in Southeast Asia yearning to jump start their own gardening culture. I heard Kuala Lumpur also held a flower show during the same week (Oooh, competition!). The Singapore Garden Festival structure and format is very similar to other existing flower shows, except the garden showcases weren’t designed thematically (fantasy served as the inspiration). Several international designers were recruited for their notoriety and previous success at similar international flower shows, but the best of show was awarded to a local designer, a fellow NParks colleague. During this event, I volunteered during the setup and tear down. So, I  was able to see all of the supplies  and manpower that’s required to pull off such an enormous event. The entire show occupied two levels of the convention center downtown, and I’m sure that well over one thousand people were involved in its execution. I’m not sure about the final attendance figures, but it appeared to be packed with visitors each time I was at the show. Suffice it to say that it’s a pretty big deal.

Personally, however, I must admit that I’m always more interested in a botanical garden’s core raison d’etre (its plants!) compared with these blockbuster exhibitions. Although each garden is uniquely suited to its local conditions, I do wish that more gardens didn’t need to step outside of a common core function of collecting, cataloging, and caring for living collections (see one recent article). These cultural organizations frequently have mission statements charging them with stewardship of living collections, research, education, and land management; I often worry that blockbuster exhibitions detract from a garden’s principal achievements. Habitat loss, development, and deforestation are occurring at high speeds, and gardens could strive to position themselves as constructive counterbalances to human-centered, economically-driven development. These gardens have the resources and expertise to remind everyone that we’re part of a larger ecosystem and it’s in our own interest to safeguard the larger balance. Modern civilization, however, has moved farther from the forest and closer to the iPhone, and young hipsters need to be coaxed into appreciating plants in new and different ways. Lately, showcasing a beautiful Victoria amazonica or Amorphophallus titanum simply isn’t enough to attract the continuously distracted. Gardens are struggling to broaden their appeal and maintain their relevance, and I hope I can be one voice saying, “Hey, botanical garden, I like you just the way you are!”

The financial receipts from these events could provide valuable support for mission-related horticultural activities, and this would be a reasonable justification for all of the costly inputs. At least, I strongly support the horticultural enthusiasm engendered by these events. I love to see kids and adults admiring orchid blooms and tree canopies, and I’m sure that flower shows leave a lasting, positive impression on many people. I take comfort knowing that many more gardeners walked out of the flower show center than entered, the result of a transformation fostered by beautifully crafted horticultural displays and alluring plant material.

P.S. – shameless self-promotion: I briefly appear in the video above!

However, one of the most notable developments in that area is the Marina Bay Sands, Singapore’s newest casino and integrated resort. The developers constructing the complex also built and manage the Las Vegas Sands and the Venetian in Las Vegas, NV. Last fall, I snapped a photograph immediately after arriving, and I went back to the bay last week to document the progress. Needless to say, the construction is nearly complete. Last August the construction site was a group of towers bestrewn with dozens of cranes and steel beams. Now, it’s really starting to take shape. The cantilevered sky bridge connecting the three towers is finished. I understand the “Sky Park” will contain an infinity pool, gardens, and a healthy assortment of eating establishments. If anything would typify the city, its restaurants and greenery, and the sky park is no exception. I also understand that there will be an entry fee. At the base of the three towers, the external shell of the casino complex is nearly complete, and I’m certain that the indoor gaming floors are being made ready for the masses. At the left, a museum, in the shape of a lotus flower, is closing in on its final shape, too. The museum is publicizing its intentions to host “world renowned” international blockbuster exhibitions. Admitting my predisposition to commercial skepticism, I will follow up on that promise closely. I did hear that the hotel will host a far-off Broadway production of Disney’s the Lion King, and I would certainly like to get in line for the chance to see that in Singapore.

Marina Bay Sands, 19 Aug 2009

Marina Bay Sands, 19 June 2010

The resort is now actually partially open for business. Unfortunately for Singaporeans, this new casino comes with an entry levy of S$100 per 24 hours! Alternatively, you can pay S$2,000 for an entire year of gambling. After some grumbling, I think most will admit that it’s a good mechanism to prevent thoughtless gambling addictions. I, luckily enough, fall into the “foreigner” category and don’t have to pay the entry levy. Whew. Anyways, it’s my simple promise that I will go and visit this construction site up close in the coming months and report on the real details of its final composition!

Small white flowers of the pigeon orchid

After a regrettably extended respite, including a new laptop made possible by the convergence of tropical thundershowers and forgetfulness, I thought it would be good to share a few more things again. And in an effort to showcase those autotrophs close to my heart, I thought I would talk a little bit about plants this time around. Specifically, epiphytes, or simply plants that grow on other plants. These plants typically rely on the rigid, long-lived branch structures in trees for their support. Although they rely on their hosts for physical support, they do not detrimentally extract nutrition from their partner. In temperate biomes, mosses and lichens mainly comprise the range of epiphytes living on woody tree stems, while the favorable climate and ample moisture of tropical biomes permits innumerable exploitations of this ecological niche. In short, we’ve got all kinds of stuff growing in trees down here! In Singapore, it’s common to encounter various ferns, liverworts, hoyas, and orchids living in tree canopies. We might as well talk about everyones’ favorite, the orchids.

The tree-based weather station

Horticulturists have consistently devoted their enthusiastic efforts to members of the Orchid Family (Orchidaceae), one of the largest plant families. Their beautifully diverse colors and forms have enticed many. Furthermore, the captivating stories of pollination biology, representing cunning reproductive strategies, are inspiring and awesome (see: bee orchid, Ophrys apifera). Species of orchids are native to every continent except Antarctica. They exist mostly as epiphytes in the tropics and as terrestrial plants in seasonal ecosystems (e.g. Cyprepedium parviflorum, Pogonia ophioglossoides, Sprianthes odorata). In Singapore, there were over 200 native orchid species originally recorded, but the total number of native orchids has dwindled due to the high cost of urban development and habitat loss. Recently, Singapore has made an ambitious, long-term commitment to reintroduce and sustain a population of native epiphytic orchids within the city’s managed tree canopy. This represents a real commitment to creating an ecologically-sound built landscape. They have even installed tree-based weather stations to monitor the typical microclimate occupied by these epiphytes!

Tiger orchid flower

There are three common orchid species encountered in the city’s trees, including the pigeon orchid (Dendrobium crumenatum), Bulbophyllum vaginatum, and the tiger orchid (Grammatophyllum speciosum). The tiger orchid is physically one of the largest species in the family, flowering normally once every two years. It’s sheer size at maturity can be astonishing, and there is a great specimen in the Tanglin Core of the Singapore Botanic Gardens.

Pigeon orchid flowers

The pigeon orchid, in particular, has been a successful colonizer of urban trees. It flowers predictably after experiencing a sudden drop in ambient temperatures, but the small, white blooms only last for one or two days. The most recent bloom I witnessed was on the first day of the Chinese New Year, an auspicious sign if ever!

I’ll keep my eye out for newly introduced orchids and post the photographs.

Well, I hope that your Christmas break was peaceful and rejuvenating! I had a tranquil vacation in a very small town in northern Thailand. The town’s name is Pai, situated about three hours northwest of Chiang Mai, and it’s nestled into a valley among mountains rising over 2,000 meters. The town is a tiny backpacker’s haven on the route from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai. It could most aptly be described as “sleepy” with no more than two traffic lights, a collection of shops along four roads, and a smattering of restaurants. The town is populated by a mixture of local farmers and tourists, and these two groups commune each night for libations, music, and conversation. The climate, in particular, is wonderful compared to Singapore. The high temperature during the day seldom tops 85F while the low reliably drops near 60F. The ambiance, to say the least, was beautiful. The town is actually the setting for a recent Thai romantic drama, and I’m including the trailer for a little bit of context. The majority of the scenes displayed are in the town itself with a few scenes from Bangkok.

We flew into Pai in a tiny, ten-seater propeller aircraft from the Chiang Mai airport.  We chose to take the twenty minute flight over a few mountain ridges instead of the nauseating, circuitous three hour car drive ,and the experience was nothing like a typical commercial flight. We sat directly behind the pilots and we could see right out the front window, and the pilot was continually pointing out cultural or historical landmarks along the way. They handed us a paper sack filled with snacks as we were boarding (as though we could actually develop hunger pangs in that short amount of time!). Upon landing at the airport in Pai, we disembarked onto the tarmac and proceeded to the baggage claim that was, in fact, disguised as a bamboo rack. I noticed a group of departing passengers waiting inside the tiny terminal hut, a structure mainly consisting of a metal detector located directly between the front and back door.

We caught a ride to our hotel that was located just outside the city limits, and we discovered a pleasant collection of two-room huts set among terraced rice paddy fields. The name of the hotel was the Phu Pai Art Resort and I would recommend the place to anyone staying in the area. In the daylight, we had a direct view of the surrounding hills beyond the paddy fields and, in the evening, the stars were brilliant in the cloudless sky.

The hotel provided a 10 minute shuttle service to the center of town and we used it frequently. We quickly discovered, unfortunately, the operating hours of the shuttle never extended beyond our evening plans, and thereafter we found that there weren’t any taxis or tuk tuks for hire in the whole town. We discussed our options briefly before helping a local cowboy push start his motorbike. It felt nice knowing we weren’t alone in our immobility. Considering our desperation, we were lucky to find a friendly, obliging restauranteur to give us a lift back to the hotel. I’m pleased to say that humanity is not doing so bad in Pai.

All in all, I’ll admit that we didn’t get much accomplished in Pai. We immersed ourselves in the culinary expertise made available at the local restaurants. The shops obviously weren’t investing any resources into the ambiance; the space consisted mostly of plastic furniture arranged among a mess of cooking supplies. The service wasn’t that remarkable, either. The food, however, was unbelievably delicious. The people of Pai maintain the art of Thai cooking with serious proficiency, and they aren’t shy about admitting the superiority of their dishes. After asking a few waitresses what was noteworthy on the menu, they all scoffed at the audacity of such a question. Each reassured in the same manner by throwing the menu on the table, “Everything is good.” They were right and I gently reassured myself that you can’t have decent price, quality, and service. At other times, we lounged around reading and relaxing along the banks of the Pai River.

We did take a short day trip out into the surrounding hills to examine the scenery and confirm the roads were, in fact, a disaster. We drove about 45 minutes outside of Pai to a scenic viewing point atop a ridge and then on to the scenic Tham Lod Cave. Every portion of this road can be likened to Lombard Street in San Francisco. I attempted, briefly, to do some reading on the road before realizing I was doomed. The destination proved beautiful, nonetheless, and we enjoyed a bamboo raft ride through an ancient river cave. The large cave was carved into the mountain by the Lang River, and the cave has been used by people for at least a millennium. We docked the raft at a few points and explored on foot before hiking around the nearby forest.

In the end, I’ve returned back to the tiny island of Singapore and I’m getting back into my regular routine. The creature of habit is creeping back into my life, and I’m feeling more reintegrated into this fast-paced lifestyle with each day. I wish everyone the best and brightest in 2010, and I look forward to sharing more experiences and catching up with all of you soon!